KKR430 Turbocharger

The KKR430 turbocharger is one of the cheaper options thats been getting known around forums, the overall design is very similar to German KKK Turbochargers, how ever it is not known for the same quality and is not a rolla bearing. They are recommended as a bolt on upgrade for the RB25 and suited to 2.0L to 2.5L engines, these turbo’s are not rated, people have been throwing about the numbers of 300-450hp but its not documented anywhere, but have a claim of 240rwkw on a 2.5 RB25DET with 15psi of boost which sound a tiny bit over rated for the specs of this turbo but then again we don’t know what other modifications that RB25 had.

Fitting average withs a T3 flange, turbine outlet is a 2.75-inch V-band and these are internally gated, there is two wastegate options available during order first is the standard at 11-12psi, or a “Race” one at 14 to 18psi, there have been an number of reported issues with waste gates getting stuck open, even though these run sleeve bearings there haven’t been reported issue’s with wear/ excessive shaft play, but there does seem to be problems with oil seals blowing, and these dont seam to last more than a year, one other thing im not sure of is the A/R of the exhaust KKR actually list in there specifications that the KKR430 is similar to their KKR380 but has a .56 A/R turbine housing yet the spec sheet says .58A/R ?? got me confused.

So at the end of the day if you have a weekend thrash box in need of a new hair dryer you can’t go wrong for the price, but if your building some serious engine I would recommended spending a bit more extra cash on Garrett, HKS, KKK, or Turbonetics turbocharger as the last thing you need is to blow a $8000 engine from a $800 turbo, and that sale rule your mum told you applies, “You get what you pay for”.

RRP: $800

Tech Specs

I have to say that the CT26 is one of the most misunderstood turbochargers in the history of turbos, it is brain teaser to figure out but is not as complicated as a rubix cube.

Most people steer clear of them because they run out of puff and just become a hair dryer after 15 psi and pump out nothing but hot air, But for Toyota’s complete in house design it’s not such a bad Turbocharger seeming how it will shit 300hp up the wall easy, even compared to the Disco Potato. As far as reliability goes it will out last and engine it looked after and common failure is popping a oil seal which is a quick fix anyway.   There are three different types of the CT26, there is CT26 from the Toyota Supra, Cressida and Soarer which has a steel wheel, is single entry, has different mounts for the wastegate, Then there is the CT26-a from the MR2 and Celica GT4 3SGTE engines know as the twin entry. First of all twin entry does not mean that the Compressor wheel has two sets of blades because thats normal, it mean the tubing inlet flange is split down the middle, why? so the gas flows across the rear of the Turbine wheel evenly.

While not being the most effective means of spooling, it does however keep the wheel temp a bit lower, which will help if you own a Import 2nd GEN 3SGTE as some had ceramic wheels. Factory wastegate for 89-93 is 8.5psi to 10psi, these are water and oil cooled and the shaft float in a coat of oil in the sleeve bearings.

Spooling is slightly better on the Supra’s CT26 as the single entry housing has a better design, but if you own the CT26a with a ceramic wheel spooling is also good with a decrease of lag, only issue how ever is how do you feel about a shattering wheel at 140,000rpm, not friendly, all variations of the CT26 have and internal wastegate , dump pipes are also different patterns and watch out for the ct26′s being sold cheap on E-bay as they list MR2 and Celica but turns out the only fit supra’s and land cruiser.

As far as upgrade goes for more top end boost clip the exhaust wheel but you will sacrifice a bit down low, and if you wish for that extra puff above 15psi a common mod is to fit Garrett T04e compressor wheel and re-bore the comp cover to end that struggle after 6000rpm (who seriously goes that hard all day long anyway), it’s not as good as a T4 but you will see a nice gain up to 16-18psi max, some people go a higher trim but this has had bad experience with shaft snapping and is also dyno proven to be more lag yetmore efficant by 3% for the 60trim. For anyone who thinks the ct26 isn’t that great, think of any other 2.0 twin cam engine like the 3SGTE that was produced in early 1990s erra that runs just as good, only other car being a SR20 which was garrets turbo anyway, So at the end of the day if you want to run up to 15psi keep your CT26, if you want 15-18psi High flow it with a Garrett T4 wheel, or for up to 15psi with a quicker spool get a CT20B, And when you are ready to upgrade to a larger turbo you would want to get some internal work done and a programmable ECU, cus there’s been plenty of engine’s blow to a CT26 and high boost.

CT26a RRP: $350 – $800

Tech Specs